Community and the “Nexus of Sustainability”

When we arrived at Goat Lady Dairy in Climax, NC we were shocked by the number of cars lining the small country road. People everywhere! Eight hundred something! It was their Fall open house, a major community event where all types of natural meats, produce, mushrooms and hand made pottery were being sold.

At the top of a small hill rested the dairy overlooking a small pond, and a small vegetable garden. Inside people tasted a variety of goat’s milk treats including fresh spreadable chevre, walnut-smoked chevre, yogurt and “goatella.” We couldn’t get to the guy we wanted to talk to, the main man Steve Tate, because he was so popular!

found him in a pen with ten goats and a big audience. With a bright projecting voice and almost tearful nostalgia he described the experience of watching the youngsters in the community grow up around him. At one point Suzy, one of the more “neurotic” goats, gave him a powerful head butt to the rear sending him forward stirring up big laughs all around.

There were volunteers, neighbors, friends, children all connected by the same enthusiasm for real, delicious natural food. “We do this because we feel like it’s our mission in life,” he says. With an intently listening audience he stood their answering questions and educating people on cheesemaking, clarifying the myths about goat cheese, and emphasizing the importance of sustainability.

We were looking for some cheese that was aged and harder so we went up to a guy who looked

like he was somewhat in charge to ask. Bingo! It was actually Steve Tate’s son Nate. He was nice enough to grab some Old Liberty (a raw cow’s milk specialty they make in limited amounts from a neighbors cow’s milk) from his secret stash. For a while we talked with him about the day’s event. “The community has made this a nexus for sustainability and that whole movement.” There was a sense that Goat Lady Dairy was something much bigger than just a place where they make cheese. The level of pride in having created this community is what we really noticed in Nate.

After the whole crowd had left we had a chance to sit on the rocking chairs in front of the Dairy with Steve and his family. He told us about their new invention they call “Goatella,” like Nutella only made with goat cheese. It was totally gone by the time we had arrived (only one hour into the open house) so we asked for the recipe. Here it is: Mix together 5 lbs. fresh chevre, 2.5 cups sugar, 1.5+ cups of cocoa, 2-3 Tbsp vanilla, 1 Tbsp Hazelnut essence. If you stir it too much it will get frothy so stir slowly and gently. There it is—Goatella!

A Jaunt to Chapel Hill

We were lucky enough to arrange a quick visit to Chapel Hill Creamery in North Carolina. Both Flo Hawley and Portia McKnight just recently returned from a trip to Italy with minds full of new ideas and inspiration about cheese. There to greet them was their closed herd of Jersey cows who are primarily pasture fed and are minimally supplemented with soy and minerals to round out their diet. Originally in 2001 when things were just beginning there were only 9 cows on the land. Today, Flo and Portia are operating at almost full capacity utilizing most of their 37 acres of pastureland.

They milk their 22 cows twice every day and usually make cheese five days a week. Originally they only breeded in the spring, but to grow their heard and cheese production they needed more cows. So they decided to have two breeding seasons in order to maintain optimal milking conditions for consistent, year round cheese making.

When we arrived Flo was hard at work in cheese making room but was able to slip away for a moment to chat while until Portia arrived to show us around the farm. She first pointed out that many of the cows were actually pregnant. Cows are like humans when it comes to gestation. A good 9 ½ months after conception, bunches of bouncing baby Bessies will be roaming around the paddocks. Only a few newborns are kept and they rest are sold to other frams. The Chapel Hill Herd is left outdoors year round with the exception of just a few of the coldest days of the winter.

As for their indoor facilities we were able to tour the milking salon and peek in at the milk room and cheese making room. We found out that Solar panels heat the pasteurization tanks. Not only is this better for the environment but it actually increases the efficiency. They have 3 caves in the cheese making room. One is dedicated as a cold room and the other two are for aging. Because of our timing, we were unable to see inside then, however, Portia was kind enough to go in and pull out some of the goods for us to see.

The ladies of Chapel Hill make 6-7 types of cheese. Their most popular may be their mozzarella and now with their very own mozzarella stretcher they can keep it comin' with a bit ease. They also make a bloomy 1 pound camembert style cheese, feta, farmers cheese and a raw milk gruyere pictured below.

At the moment Darren and I are enjoying the Hickory Grove that Portia sent us home with (well to the campground really.) She suggested we wait it out a few days before we dug into it. It was hard but we were patient. And patience pays off. It's PERFECT!

It has been a few days since our visit and now we're in the middle of Kentucky at a Super8, our plastic knife in hand, and we gently cut through the healthy, thick rind only to find pure satisfaction in texture and taste. Gooey (not oozy) near the rind and a tad bit firmer in the center. The quality and freshness of the milk is the first thing that stands out, followed by a slight saltiness and an agreeable tang.

As we were leaving the creamery that day we asked Portia what she would serve with the Hickory Grove, or any of their other cheeses for that matter and she replied, “They’re just good on their own. That’s how you taste them the best.” We concur.

Rona Sullivan and the Reign of Terroir

Oh Rona! Where to begin? How can WE do YOU justice? This is what I struggle with at the moment. Should I begin with the cheese and your ancestral artisanal ways? Darren chants softly near me, “Clear and concise…Clear and concise.” Aaaahhhhhhh! I’m tryin’.

There couldn’t possibly be a more generous, more enthusiastic, more warm-hearted soul then Rona Sullivan of Bonnyclabbler Country Cheese and it permeates with vivid expression into her work. Her goat cheese, made from a herd of only five goats, is made without added cultures or rennet, something very unusual and rustic. The taste is exquisite: rich, bold, tangy and incredibly clean. Rona is committed to her “old school” cheesemaking technique which is inspired by her family’s Irish hometown traditions. She is a rebel in this world of artisanal cheese, a hidden gem and an excellent host.

"We can’t have brunch without flowers!” Rona says as she gathers wild flowers from her front yard. We followed her inside to her kitchen not quite knowing what to expect since this is only our second dairy visit but were soon awed. It was like talking to an old friend. Her knowledge is deep and rich and she was eager to share. Cheese, honey, fresh baked bread and crisp rainbow chard filled the kitchen.

The majority of our visit was talking about Bonnyclabber over breakfast. She showed us how to make Easy Southern Biscuits all the while sharing information about her cheese making process and commitment sustainable living. “As long as we can keep the farm no matter what happens—illness, hurricanes--that’s what sustainable is to me.”

She produces her own honey, soap (including the lye), eggs, bread, fruit preserves and maintains a diverse vegetable garden. Guard dogs and Lamas (which are also guard animals! who knew?) protect her property from coyotes and foxes. Her goal is to one day be completely sustainable throughout the year.

We asked her about a recipe that included her cheese and Rona referred us to her son Cole. An excellent cook and musician, Cole made us a stovetop, cast iron frittata we call Cole’s “Sandy Bottom” Eggs.

The Recipe: Cole began by whipping up farm fresh eggs with a little milk. To this mixture he adds a rainbow of vegetables including coarsely chopped red swiss chard, green bell pepper, purple onions and aromatic basil. Then most importantly he crumbles Bonnyclabber Sandy Bottom goat milk cheese into this heavenly concoction and it now stands ready for the cast iron skillet. The thick, frittata like egg omelet is cooked solely on the stove stop, being turned once for even cooking. Cole slices and plates the eggs where they are joined by biscuits topped with butter and either homemade honey, or Crazy Lady Preserves (Mmmm, or both!)

We sit down for breakfast at the Sulivans’ table where an array of 5 goat cheeses, fresh whey bread, and steaming hot coffee await. While enjoying our fabulous breakfast Rona shows us how she makes cheese, bustin’ out a presentation board with her process diagramed and illustrated from beginning to end. My favorite part in her process is when she tastes the curd to determine what cheese IT wants to be. If the curd is a little sharper, it will be made into Tidewater. If the curd is a bit sweeter she will make Moonshine or another cheese that wants sweeter curd. “This is the Rein of Terroir!” she says. The milk tells her what cheese it wants to be.

When it comes to molding time Rona sees no need in buying fancy French molds. Instead, she finds cool shaped containers around the house that could be used as molds. For her ashed rind cheese, Virginia Belle, she uses a French stylye coffee glass, and for one of her soaps she uses a Hershey’s Cocoa Tin as a mold. Talk about recycling and reusing!

I have to say that one of the highlights of this visit was a personal mini concert during out meal by Cole. In traditional Irish style we were serenaded with two original songs that made our visit more personal and enjoyable than we could have ever imagined. Check out more of Cole's tunes at www.colemusic.net.

We ended our outing by touring the unique facility where all of the magic happens. A 12x24 Grade A facility where the hand milking, making and aging of Bonnyclabber occurs. Rona sent us on our way with an entire basket of goodies including goat’s milk soaps, honey, fresh bread, “crazy lady fruit preserves,” cheese and more.

We left transformed. The Sullivans are a remarkable family on a remarkable mission. We feel the need to offer so many thanks and we hope to visit them again sometime down the road.

Holy Sheeeep!

Everona Dairy was outstanding. The stars of the show are Dr. Pat Elliot and her daughter-in-law, cheesemaker extraordinaire Carolyn Wentz. What a lady! She can fix a car, build a house, raise two beautiful kids and make fabulous cheese. Everything is farmstead and artisanal--handmade top to bottom. Their herd of 150 alfalfa-fed, Friesian sheep are milked twice daily and produce some super-delish milk.

Their flagship cheese is their Piedmont which is aged 60 days before going to market. It is slightly nutty, sweet and tangy with subtle alfalfa notes near the rind. This is a harder cheese that can easily be aged for more than two years for crystally, heavenly goodness. The cheesemaker’s favorite pairing with this raw-milk, natural rind beauty is apples. Either fresh or cooked down with some sugar, Carolyn says this is the perfect match.

Our two-hour tour was detailed and so much fun. Oscar, Carolyn’s adorable two-year-old son (and milking apprentice) was with us for much if it and so was Julie the sheep/guard dog. Carolyn is warm and has such a great sense of humor. The high quality of all of their cheeses, from unique blues to unusual sheep’s milk cheddar are no doubt products of her hard work and love for her craft. “We don’t get much sleep around here,” says Carolyn with an exasperated, yet beaming smile. She is a strong woman and there is much about her worth admiring.

Everona is in the process of expanding production to meet demand. They sell at about 15 local markets and ship coast to coast. April through June is peak season. The have some very interesting washed rind cheeses that are soaked in either Dr. Elliot’s home made beer (YUM!), or a very locally produced red wine. Their facility is impeccably clean and their cave is absolutely pristine.

Carolyn’s favorite recipe with their Piedmont:

Grate some cheese (coarse) into a nice little mountain. Get a frying pan good and hot. Take a 1-2 tablespoon pinch of the cheese and put it right in the center (no oil) of the pan. Let it melt down until it gets a little bit bubbly and golden brown on the bottom. Flip it over for about another 45 seconds. Remove from the pan and let cool. It should be crispy and golden on both sides. Top it with a smear of basil pesto and some diced (preferably heirloom) tomatoes. We recommend dressing the tomatoes with some lemon, salt and a drop of olive oil. What a treat! And, yes, we made this ourselves...I’m gainin’ on ya Fraser!

Tomorrow bright and early we head out to Wake, VA to see the super-friendly people at Bonnyclabber. They’ve invited us for brunch! Are cheesemakers the nicest people, or what? In the afternoon we zip down to Chapel Hill to meet with the superstar cheesemakers there.

Funniest thing that happened today: Darren nearly took a little more of the farm with him than he wanted too. Luckily, there was half a popsicle stick to pick it out. Hello thinning hair! ouch.

p.s. Car is named...Renet-gade, aka Renny G.

Homeless, Jobless, and On the Road!

Wow!

We are one day away from hitting the road on our “tour de queso!” It still seems so unreal. Darren and I had our last days of work on Sunday, I at Casellula and Darren at Dovetail. We were both lucky enough to work at our two favorite places in New York.

On Monday we had our last New York dinner at Compass, met up with friends at Revival where Darren and I had our first “date,” and stayed at the Hudson hotel.

It’s Tuesday now. We rolled out of bed, a little hung over, and hopped a train to Stamford where we are picking up the Car, which Darren insists on naming. He has a few in mind, however, he wants to feel out the vehicle first to see if the name “fits.” His first thought is Bessie. Appropriate maybe.

Our first week is planned! Whoooo Hooooo! Seven, count them 7, cheesemakers have graciously accepted our request to visit them. Some have even extended invitations for lunch, supper and a place to crash. Cheesemakers are nice! I’m glad we like cheese and not, let’s say, corporate law.

Dun da da dahn! (is that how you spell it?) Our first week itinerary!

Thurday, 10/1

Evarona Dairy in Rapidan, VA

Friday 10/2

Bonnyclabber Country Cheese in Wake, VA

Chapel Hill Creamery in Chapel Hill, NC

Saturday 10/3

We are still waiting for a response from...

Sunday 10/4

Goat Lady Dairy in Climax, NC

Monday 10/5

Meadow Creek Dairy in Galax, VA

Ripshin Goat Dairy in Lenior, NC

Tuesday 10/6

Locust Grove Farm in Knoxville, TN

BTW-the CAR is NOT named yet! What are we to do? By tomorrow morning we will have picked from the following list:

The Curdster

The Renent-gade

The Rind Rocket

Ol' Bessie

The Shredder

Dolly Pardon

The Cheese Chariot

The Utter-cycle

We have our work cut out for us for sure! (I had to cut Darren off or this would have gone on for hours) Any Faves? Or ones we didn't think of? Maybe a middle name.

At this point in the evening we are slightly delirious. Shenandoah here we come!

p.s. Funniest thing that happened today: Liana drank coffee.

Question: Why can't we input more than 26 locations on Google Maps?

Cheese Lovers! Cheese Makers! Cheese...People of every type! Friends! Family! Welcome! We are setting off on a multi-week cheese tour of the U.S.A that will take us from coat to coast--NYC to SF. Why? WE LOVE CHEESE! Especially Artisanal Cheese. Our goal is to visit well established, and up and coming "rising star" cheese makers across the country, particularly in some of the regions that tend to get less attention.

For us, eating and appreciating fine, hand-made cheese has become a passion that grows deeper every day. We have been working with many of these awesome American Farmstead/Artisanal Cheeses (and fabulous European Cheeses of course) for years and are excited to meet the people behind some of our favorites. Our particular interest, besides the cheeses themselves, is the places they are made, the "hometowns" of the people who make and enjoy the finest farmstead products in the U.S.A.

Of course we had to map out our trip right? This beginning stage of our trip has led us to lose faith in Google Maps for the time being. Maximum destination inputs? 26! That's point A to Z. Now really, Google, you're letting us down here! Yes, we have more than 26 stops on our journey and all we wanted was one big ol' map. Most of our 27+ stops are all about Cheese, but hey, who can pass up Graceland? Well, it kind of fits into our "Cheesy" theme. And it was either that or Dollywood. ( Darren voted Dollywood...interesting!)

All this map hoogamalu had led us in a different direction when it comes to posting our route. We will break our trip up into 3-4 day chunks. The first leg of our trip will be posted on September 30th along with the coinciding map. Google, can you handle this? Wifi, can you handle this? Battery, can you handle this? I really hope Y'all can handle this!