Rona Sullivan and the Reign of Terroir

Oh Rona! Where to begin? How can WE do YOU justice? This is what I struggle with at the moment. Should I begin with the cheese and your ancestral artisanal ways? Darren chants softly near me, “Clear and concise…Clear and concise.” Aaaahhhhhhh! I’m tryin’.

There couldn’t possibly be a more generous, more enthusiastic, more warm-hearted soul then Rona Sullivan of Bonnyclabbler Country Cheese and it permeates with vivid expression into her work. Her goat cheese, made from a herd of only five goats, is made without added cultures or rennet, something very unusual and rustic. The taste is exquisite: rich, bold, tangy and incredibly clean. Rona is committed to her “old school” cheesemaking technique which is inspired by her family’s Irish hometown traditions. She is a rebel in this world of artisanal cheese, a hidden gem and an excellent host.

"We can’t have brunch without flowers!” Rona says as she gathers wild flowers from her front yard. We followed her inside to her kitchen not quite knowing what to expect since this is only our second dairy visit but were soon awed. It was like talking to an old friend. Her knowledge is deep and rich and she was eager to share. Cheese, honey, fresh baked bread and crisp rainbow chard filled the kitchen.

The majority of our visit was talking about Bonnyclabber over breakfast. She showed us how to make Easy Southern Biscuits all the while sharing information about her cheese making process and commitment sustainable living. “As long as we can keep the farm no matter what happens—illness, hurricanes--that’s what sustainable is to me.”

She produces her own honey, soap (including the lye), eggs, bread, fruit preserves and maintains a diverse vegetable garden. Guard dogs and Lamas (which are also guard animals! who knew?) protect her property from coyotes and foxes. Her goal is to one day be completely sustainable throughout the year.

We asked her about a recipe that included her cheese and Rona referred us to her son Cole. An excellent cook and musician, Cole made us a stovetop, cast iron frittata we call Cole’s “Sandy Bottom” Eggs.

The Recipe: Cole began by whipping up farm fresh eggs with a little milk. To this mixture he adds a rainbow of vegetables including coarsely chopped red swiss chard, green bell pepper, purple onions and aromatic basil. Then most importantly he crumbles Bonnyclabber Sandy Bottom goat milk cheese into this heavenly concoction and it now stands ready for the cast iron skillet. The thick, frittata like egg omelet is cooked solely on the stove stop, being turned once for even cooking. Cole slices and plates the eggs where they are joined by biscuits topped with butter and either homemade honey, or Crazy Lady Preserves (Mmmm, or both!)

We sit down for breakfast at the Sulivans’ table where an array of 5 goat cheeses, fresh whey bread, and steaming hot coffee await. While enjoying our fabulous breakfast Rona shows us how she makes cheese, bustin’ out a presentation board with her process diagramed and illustrated from beginning to end. My favorite part in her process is when she tastes the curd to determine what cheese IT wants to be. If the curd is a little sharper, it will be made into Tidewater. If the curd is a bit sweeter she will make Moonshine or another cheese that wants sweeter curd. “This is the Rein of Terroir!” she says. The milk tells her what cheese it wants to be.

When it comes to molding time Rona sees no need in buying fancy French molds. Instead, she finds cool shaped containers around the house that could be used as molds. For her ashed rind cheese, Virginia Belle, she uses a French stylye coffee glass, and for one of her soaps she uses a Hershey’s Cocoa Tin as a mold. Talk about recycling and reusing!

I have to say that one of the highlights of this visit was a personal mini concert during out meal by Cole. In traditional Irish style we were serenaded with two original songs that made our visit more personal and enjoyable than we could have ever imagined. Check out more of Cole's tunes at www.colemusic.net.

We ended our outing by touring the unique facility where all of the magic happens. A 12x24 Grade A facility where the hand milking, making and aging of Bonnyclabber occurs. Rona sent us on our way with an entire basket of goodies including goat’s milk soaps, honey, fresh bread, “crazy lady fruit preserves,” cheese and more.

We left transformed. The Sullivans are a remarkable family on a remarkable mission. We feel the need to offer so many thanks and we hope to visit them again sometime down the road.